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Be Our Guest: Soucie Horner’s Postcards From India, Jaipur

March 3, 2010

From our guest editor Martin Horner of Soucie Horner:

India continues to amaze us. It is incredible how one adapts so quickly…we are getting used to the traffic, sounds and smells. The last two days we have been spending time with different weavers in Jaipur. The weavers’ techniques are fascinating. They work so quickly and are so proud of what they do. And they are very eager to show their work and pose for photos. We have learned so much about the process, including the dying, blocking, and chemical aspects. We are truly inspired by their techniques.

jaipur

The weavers work on dirty, dusty floors. They are crunched over and barefoot. And we have learned that the rug business is really hurting here. One weaver at his production height had 2,500 weavers. Today he has only 225. Some weaving companies are closing their business and looking for other trade opportunities. Unfortunately, the weavers leave the industry to find work and never come back. Some feel the industry is fading. Weaving was originally an art form, then it evolved into an industry, and now it looks like it will return to its roots as an art form. Going wages are 200 rupees a week and the days are long and hard. Fortunately, we have seen no child labor at all, as over the past ten years India has been enforcing stricter child labor laws. The weavers are all anxious to meet with us and inquire about color, texture and trends in the US, their largest market. They know that to stand out and be successful in the marketplace, you must adapt to the trends in the US.

jaipur2

The different techniques inform the designs. There are Persian, Turkish and Pakistani styles. We have seen amazing flat weaves, silk, cashmere and knot types. There are different ways to finish as well (chemical, sun, machine, clipping, hand work, etc).

At home, some of our clients fret about their rugs getting dirty and wearing out. The process is not so precious here. Now I have ammunition to let them know the truth…these rugs are almost impossible to wear out!

jaipur1

Last night we were invited to dine at a manufacturers’ home for dinner. It was truly lovely. The owners typically live above their business, and pretty lavishly compared to the rest of the people. The lady of the house was a gracious hostess and took care of all of our needs. They had a nice roof top terrace overlooking the city. And though the atmosphere was serene in their home, outside the wall was total chaos and filth.

Today we are heading off to Agra for another day of adventure!

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